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Get Motoring

motor done.JPG


Every big project I've ever worked on has had "Mini-Projects" hidden inside. By this I mean a part or repair made that has involved a great deal

of planning, set up, and of coarse time. But it will be overshadowed by the rest of the project or hidden in a way that it will never be noticed or properly appreciated for the effort applied.

In this case, a motor face plate.


Shape of inspiration



Soon after I began the Locomotive project I happened across two electric pallet trucks that were being scrapped. While everyone else was busy fighting over who got to take the batteries to the scrap yard,  I was given permission to take the motors and all the controls. What a great deal!... The only downside was the odd motor configuration, the motor had a special flange designed for the gearbox it was originally mounted to, and worse the shaft was tapered. I could have left the flange alone but If I ever have to replace it, I would have to remake the mount on the locomotive. Instead I made a new flange for the motor to make it a standard C-Face mount that will be readily available if the day comes.




Starting with a 1-1/4" aluminum plate I band sawed it to a rough round than turned the motor side to match the old flange, here I am facing the second side to match the profile of a standard C-Face motor. OOOOOH! Shiny!

Is it Art?

plate finished.JPG

I always love visiting machine shops, not that I want to be a machinist, but I am captivated by the beauty of intricate parts, or maybe I just like shiny things... Every shop has tables and carts full of little brass widgets and stainless steel Do-Dads, each one a finely crafted piece of metal art that is doomed to rest inside a machine, hidden behind a cover to make it more aesthetically pleasing to nimrods.

Tight squeeze


The motor shaft has a taper with a key and lock nut, so a pulley is not exactly an off the shelf part... Since I do not have the means to acuratly measure the taper to reproduce it,  My best option was to reuse the origional gear and turn it down into a bushing. I ground the teeth off of the gear and then turned it to a size that could nest into a timing pulley with a matched bore. The bushing was then loctighted, and pressed into the pulley. BUT..... nobody will ever see this part either.......

Warped Mind

warped mind 1.JPG

   Anyone who has laid a bead of weld down one side of a beam knows that warping is a problem. My locomotive frame is 12' long and I knew warping would be a problem if not careful. The welds securing the walkway to the frame rails are short and well spaced but this still gave a slight warp to the frame over the full length about 1/16" low in the center. I really wanted the center high to counter the motor and battery weight that will be loaded on later.

Photo:  sighting down the side after straightening.

Caterpillars on the march

warped mind 2.JPG

To straighten the frame I laid heavy beads on the underside of the frame in the "Low" spots this shrinks the metal giving curving it back the right way. I did a little at a time a stopped when it had just a slight upward curve. these beads are then ground off and finished smooth. I used an 8' straightedge to gauge the work.